Travel Essays
Europe

FIND BATHROOMSADD BATHROOMSAWARDSABOUTPARTNERSESSAYSMEDIASHOPPRIVACYCONTACT

Updated January 2005

St. Petersburg , Russia
     On a recent mission trip to Russia , I was reminded of just how happy I am to be an American, much of the joy revolving around our public and FREE public toilets. We were doing some ministry with some street kids, who actually are quite frequent in St. Pete, and a few of us had to go. Our host told us that there were some bathrooms at the entrance of the area where we were, and that we may have to pay to use them. We approached the place, and it looked like a wooden old "" West Virginia style"" mobile home had been raised up on stilts. We looked at each other, steeled ourselves, and went in. There was, indeed, a little window area where you were supposed to pay to use the bathroom, (3 rubles, about 10 cents at the time) but I couldn't see anyone there. Turns out a small child was there, and yelling at me in Russian. When I walked in, there was a line of wooden stalls, in a dimly lit area, rather like something that Steven King would dream up. The small basket on the floor for the toilet paper had some in it, and it was terribly bloody. I really didn't want to think about why, and certainly realized that I could ""hold it"" so as not to have to sit on the filthy toilet. I did stand, and finished what I had to do, and thanked God as I flushed my paper when I returned home "

Ukraine
I was visiting my son when he served as a Peace Corps volunteer in Ukraine . There are several bathroom stories to tell but the most horrible experience for me was the day we went to Truskavetc. This is a holiday/spa town in the hills in the eastern area of Ukraine . It was explained to me that this is the place that everyone likes to come to for a healthy vacation and it is considered a luxury resort town. They are known for their healing waters. So of course I drank the water. After a while I found the need to seek the ladies room. My son's Ukrainian girlfriend (who did not speak English at all) led me to the public toilets. They seemed to be built into the side of a hill and it was necessary to go down a staircase to get to them. When we got there an old woman with only a few teeth was waiting to take our money to use the facility. I have no idea what the cost was because the girlfriend paid. But anyway I was led into this dark cavern with stalls. The smell was overwhelming. I opened a door to a stall expecting to see a toilet but was greeted with a filthy hole in the ground. As I shut the door behind me for privacy I realized that I was in the pitch dark and I had no idea where the hole actually was. So, I hiked up my skirt and tried to squat over the hole, hoping I was hitting the mark. When I emerged from the stall the old toothless woman began yelling at me in Ukrainian and proceeded to spray a hose at my feet and into the stall. Apparently I had missed the hole! I could not get out of there fast enough. This is apparently the Soviet idea of a vacation paradise.

Hungary
     There was one time when I went to Hungary & I really needed to go. But it cost 50 forint to use the bathroom.  I thought ‘alright it will probably be cleaner then free bathrooms.  So I paid.  When I went in the bathroom it was so dirty.
     Brooms and mops when just lying around and the floor was almost black (the original color of it is white) and the employee who you paid was like a bum who probably did not take a shower in like a month. Also even though I paid 50 forint she kept on saying in Hungarian "don’t use that much water". 

Athens Airport
     I admit it was partly my fault -- I knew we would not have much to eat the day we left our cruise ship, so I stoked up on a wonderful, filling, American-style breakfast: eggs, pancakes and lots of bacon. Bad decision.   
     By the time we had transferred (as they say) to the Athens airport, by tummy was rumbling. After a quick check-in -- security is not the tightest in Athens -- it was not exactly a run, but was a brisk walk to the "Men's."   
     No partitions. Hum. Lots of people in and out, but what choice do you have? When in Athens , do as the Athenians do, I guess. Hardly conducive to explosive problems, but, after all . . .   
     I reached back to flush. I looked for the flusher. I pivoted and looked harder. This baby does not flush. It seems to be self-cleaning -- a trickle of water into the bowl. At the rate the water is trickling and the rate my digestive system is operating, this bowl will be clean about the same time my flight is due to land in New York .
     Since things are calming down, my main goal was to get out of the place, find my wife and get the lomotil as soon as possible. They *did* have toilet paper -- and a sign which said to deposit the used paper in a basket beside the facility. Gross.
     It took four lomotil and three more trips to this non-loo before things settled down. My advice, never eat less than 24 hours before flying out of Athens  

Italy Rest Stop
    
I was driving with my Aunt and Uncle through Italy when we decided to stop at a busy roadside rest stop.  The restroom was very nice with about 8 private stalls and a row of sinks across from them.  I finished my task and when I tried to exit the stall I realized that I couldn't open the door.
     I was locked in!  I pushed and jiggled the button on the latch every way I could think of for what seemed like an eternity and couldn't unlock it.  There wasn't enough open space at the bottom of the door to crawl out even if I did want to get down on the damp floor. 
    By this time panic had begun to set in and I started calling out "Hello, Can anyone help me?" while knocking on the door loudly.  I could hear several people busily flushing, washing, and talking, but not one person came to my aid.
    Puzzled, I persisted, and then finally realized that I was speaking English and apparently no one streaming in and out of the restroom knew what I was saying!  Helpless and frustrated, I realized that the only Italian I knew were the words for "thank-you", "please," and "yes."
    Finally my Aunt decided to come looking for me, when at that exact moment I pulled and lifted the door button in precisely the right combination to open it.  She whisked me away in my embarrassment and hurriedly packed me into the car and we sped off laughing, leaving a lot of perplexed people wondering what that crazy woman was knocking and yelling about. Moral of the story: add the words "help open door" to your travel vocabulary!

Culture Reflected in Irish Restrooms
  Traveling in Ireland was quite an experience, especially when using public restrooms.  The urinals were not so much individual urinals as much as an entire wall with drains at the floor.  The heavy drinking, be it alchoholic or not, of the society is seen in this common sense method of dealing with mass amounts of excreted liquids.
  On a side note, every bathroom also had condom dispensers, selling them in the same machine as candy and toothpaste.  I thought this was honest considering America's method of sticking them in the back corner of CVS.

Republic of Georgia
  The worst toilets I've encountered were in the Republic of Georgia. A magnificent country full of the most wonderful, fun people, grand architecture, beautiful music and outstanding food---BUT...the toilets were abysmal. The stench makes one vomatose.  (Tbilisi; Kutaisi; Goordjahni)
  My question for you and the reason for my writing:
Has any device been invented for travelers to use when using these vile facilities that is capable of quelling the stench?  Please do not say for one to put perfume on the wrist or such as that. NOTHING works. Surely with all the people traveling, someone would have invented something to fix this problem. Or perhaps you could throw it out to the world at large as a challenge!  

Turkey, 1976
 
Some friends and I got snowed-in and were rescued by a wonderful family who insisted we take refuge in their house. Their 'bathroom' was a rickety box on the second story jutting out from the building. It had a concrete floor sloping down to a large central hole. The idea was to 'evacuate' over the hole, underneath which was an enormous pile of frozen sh*t which, I was told, was used as manure when it thawed in the spring.
 
Muslim families traditionally remove their shoes at the front door. Outside the bathroom door, there were huge boat like shoes to slip on before entering. After closing the door behind me, I rolled down my jeans and tried to straddle the hole. Unfortunately, the efforts of previous occupants had made the floor into a skating rink, so I quickly found my ill-clad feet sliding towards the hole and, there being nothing solid to grab on to, whooshed down, dangling half in and half out of the diabolical contraption.
 
To this day I feel the shame of knowing that the entire village was treated to the sight of my bare bottom and legs swinging around wildly in an effort to hoist myself back up the hole, while trying desperately not to slip through and land on the mound of indescribable filth beneath me. Since then, every other type of third world toilet has been a cinch.

Italy by Train
 
Three of us were travelling by train on a overnight through Europe with a final destination at Pisa.  Well, I must have had "irritable bowel syndrome" and needed in a very bad way to go to the bathroom.  Lo and behold, we were warned not to go on the train (especially when it is at a stop) because anything that goes through the toilet is just dropped either directly onto the tracks or sometimes can cling to the "pipes."  This apparently would create a rather malodorous situation.  We arrived around midnight at the station in Milan. I thought I was in luck, but they were cleaning both the bathrooms!  I was therefore resolved to stick it out all the way to Pisa.  At that point I was already just about poking daylight!
 
Upon our arrival in Pisa, I was more concerned about finding facilities then about seeing the Leaning Tower!  We found a small cafe/restaurant (the only one around) in which we could eat and I could use the WC.  I was shocked to enter the "bathroom" as it was just a plain old hole in the ground in a drab room!  At that time, however, it was the best looking sight I had seen for quite some time.

Spain
 
This is a wonderful website, since I suffer from some gastrointestinal problems, finding bathrooms that are user friendly has been a challenge for me over the years.  I will share one story with you that happened in the early 80's in Madrid, Spain, a wonderful beautiful country that I was lucky to visit with my husband who at the time was working for the State Department.
  We were out for a night on the town, with another couple and Madrid has many wonderful places to stop and get a drink of the local wine and tapa's.  Myself and the other gal that I was with needed to go to the bathroom, they did have ladies and men's rooms.
  So, we went together and it was a normal toilet by American standards (no pun intended), except the tank was mounted on the wall above the toilet seat, the handle to flush the toilet was hanging from the tank by a plastic cord with a knob of sorts.  We preceded to finish and as I pulled to flush, the whole cord and handle came off in my hand.
  We just looked at it in my hand, started to laugh so hard, that when our husbands came looking for us, they heard us laughing and opened the door and saw what had happened and took a picture and it is a great one.  I kept that cord and handle for years and when my husband would tell the story and show people the picture he would also show my keepsake from a wonderful slightly drunk evening in Madrid.  Keep the stories coming they are great.

 

 

Paris Sidewalk
    
In 1973 we visited Paris with our 14 and 16 year old daughters.  Sidewalk urinals were still in use.  The side panels were approximately 7' high with a 2' opening at the bottom.  The urinals were on the outside walls.  While my spouse and the girls were looking at the sights I entered and attended to business.  The following conversation ensued:  "Where is Dad?"  "He is in that strange building."  "How do you know?"  "I see his shoes."
     I was disappointed to find that on my next visit in 1979 these unusual facilties had been removed.

Russia - Cruising on the Volga River
    
Many years ago I was fortunate/unfortunate enough to take a cruise on the ' Volga ' for a week.
    Along side the toilets on the boat there were wicker baskets. I thought they were for people to keep the room tidy by putting chocolate wrappers and cotton buds in.
     As the days passed I noticed the baskets getting fuller and wondered when the cleaners would empty them.
     As more days passed I realized the baskets were for putting used toilet paper in and the smell alerted me to this fact.
     Not being aware of this I and had been putting all my paper in the toilet and flushing as my mother had taught me.
     After about 6 days a barge pulled up alongside the cruise boat and hoses attached to the barge whereby all the sewerage was pumped over.  A lovely little family of Mum, Dad and very small children lived on this barge. It would appear that if paper was flushed into the tanks it may clog up the works.

Praha , Czech Republic   
     If you have ever been to Praha, maybe you have also seen the bathroom at the main station.  It's ok, its clean and quite big. And, as often, there's sitting a toilet-man or -woman before it and takes the money for using the urgently needed place.  At the very bathroom, the toilet-man sat behind a table like a business-man, in front of him, the toilet paper was accurately sorted on the table, always two pieces for one user.
     The advantage for the cleaner: everybody had to pay before using the toilet, and nobody could take too much paper.

 Austrian Adventure
    
After spending four months in Vienna , Austria , I learned to appreciate the different bathroom (WC) culture. At least for Austria, the way the system usually works in public places is that (for guys of course) if you have to answer nature’s call, you walk into the bathroom past a side room and either veer right to the urinals or left to the separate toilet compartments.  If you do veer left, you usually have to pay.
     The most uncomfortable part about the whole system is that the old Austrian ladies who hang out in the side room, which has a wonderful view of the urinals, have no shame.  The sound of water on water or the fact that members of the opposite sex are relieving themselves has no bearing on their decision to walk freely throughout the bathroom.  
     The urinals in Austria do not have the typical urinal cake to deter stench.  Instead, they place real sliced lemons in there perhaps to enhance the illusion of homemade lemonade.
     The Austrians do deserve Kudos on the urinal splashguard.  This ingenious invention just makes life a little better.

  Bulgaria
      We were on holiday in Bulgaria in 1994, and decided to go walking in the Thrace Mountains . The nearest railway station was Slevin. After a very memorable walk, (which we won't discuss. I had to go to the loo at the station. At the door entry there was an old local woman, who looked about 80, but was probably 75 selling drinks for a small amount of Lev (the Bulgarian currency).
      I didn’t purchase the drink, instead I went through the door and entered a nightmare worse then Dante or Edgar Allan Poe could have dreamt about. On the other side of the door it was pitch black, I searched for the light switch, but to no avail. I carried on walking groping my way to the toilet.
    The distance from the door to the toilet seemed like an eternity, it was about 25 yards in reality. As there was no light, I had to walk slowly down the corridor and all the while there was the pungent smell of stale urine and feces. By the time I reached the toilets I was simultaneously holding my breath, while attempting to breathe through my nose and piss at the same time. Trying to all three at the same is hard, it is even harder when you are trying not to puke up your stomach contents.
    I had never left a toilet so quickly wanting this errand to end asap. Even today it still makes me want to vomit.

Spain
     Three of us women just returned April 30 2002 from a delightful, but a bit exhausting, trip to Spain . We drove and hiked all over southern Iberia -- Madrid , Toledo , and points south in Andalusia . Everywhere we went --  a Plaza de Major terrace eatery in Madrid , a damascene jewelry shop in Toledo , the heavily tourist trafficked Alhambra in Granada , or a service station off national highway N-IV -- the bathrooms were well stocked and well tended. And, yes, we discovered a variety of plumbing systems; luckily no holes to squat over. The place is a boon to middle-aged bladders!

 Italy
 
Enjoyed the article recently in USA Today.  Would like to add to the experience in Austria.  The same happened to us in Italy.  At every "pit stop" on our bus tour, there was a stampede to line up for the bathrooms, many of which were unisex.  We quickly learned that the first one in and out would tell the second in line where to look for the flush button, handle or chain.  Some were on top of the tank, some on the floor, to the
left, to the right, above, below, etc.  The word would then be passed down the line, speeding up the process considerably.  I considered writing a travel book called "The Bathrooms of Italy," but this web site takes care of it all.  thanks.

Paris (1960)
    
Great site!
    
In 1960, our first trip to Europe, we were listening to jazz in a small place on the Left Bank. I asked about a wc and a gentleman offered to show me where it was. I followed him out of the door into a building next door. As we climbed the steps, the lights went out, then came on again. Finally, we reached a door, and I went to find two footprints and a hole. Trying to aim in the dark is tricky.
 
It wasn't until we returned from Europe that I realized I was lucky and that the gentleman was, indeed, one. My husband would never have found me.
 
It was a great trip, and we did it again 37 years later.

The Long Ride to Megeve (France):
 
We were returning from Cannes to Megeve, and stopped over in Lyon for a leisurely supper. Once we were back on the road, wouldn't you know? We had to find a bathroom.
 
Never fear! Along the side of the highway was a clean cement structure, where we could prepare for the long ride up to Megeve. They're not fancy, but nature keeps those clean --- those French know what's important when designing highways!

Romania
 
I notice you don't have any entries for Romania. I was there in 1997 on a University sponsored tour that was planned and guided by Center for Romanian Studies at Iasi University in Iasi, Romania. The bathroom situation there is much like Italy, including a scarcity of facilities.  A car whose job was to scout out facilities for us preceded our bus. The toilets, when not primitive, had bowls whose design made flushing difficult. The bowl was long, flat, and the water was in a hole to the rear. So whatever got deposited on the flat front stayed there. Heavy coarse toilet paper clogged the pipes. So after 2 or 3 uses, you had a mess. And like another correspondent, I hugged my Kohler and wrote Kohler, as I mentioned to you in posting a new bathroom. We don't realize how fortunate we are until we visit less developed countries.

 
Great web site! I hope it will grow and grow

Ireland
 
No story - only a comment about the bathrooms in Ireland.  First of all, you ask for the “toilet.”  They are not so Victorian-minded as the Americans.  And, secondly, I defy anyone to find a dirty or messy bathroom in IRELAND!  We spent 2 1/2 weeks driving around the country in July, and every TOILET either in a restaurant or by the wayside was immaculate and well-supplied with soap, paper and hand dryers.  That's all folks. MB

Italy
 
Your web site is a wonderful idea. We had spend two weeks vacation in Italy and were shocked to see what poor conditions the facilities that we found were in. With a country that attracts so many tourists one would expect the facilities to be better maintained. We found a lot of holes in the floor, which is not my cup of tea. The WC’s were worth the cost as most of them were well maintained with seats and paper. It is not healthy for a female to squat while using a facility, but many Italy's tourist areas did not have seats. We were shocked to see the long lines at the Vatican plaza waiting to use the facilities. Hotels are the best places to use while traveling in Italy if they would let you use their facilities.
 
There was no WC at the Tower of Pisa in Pisa.

 

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